Allen Meadows 90-93/100 | Drink: 2034+. Producer note: Jean-Nicolas Méo described the 2023 growing season with the French term éprouvant, meaning particularly demanding or testing. “It was clear almost from the beginning that the crop would potentially be enormous,” he noted, and that alone was a challenge. Add an equally difficult mix of high temperatures, drought and storms that alternated heat with humidity, requiring constant treatments, and you had “an excellent recipe for a headache that lasts all summer!” The season began early and vegetation exploded, while flowering passed in less than a week. Fruit set was huge; although only an estimate, some parcels had the potential to deliver as much as 80 hl/ha, almost unheard of. It was obvious the crop had to be heavily reduced, so they spent a great deal of time dropping fruit. Potential alcohols came in between 13.5 and 14.5%, higher on average than in 2022. Méo did a light saignée of about 3% to improve the solids-to-liquid ratio, followed by relatively light extraction and an equally gentle pressing after fermentation. Acidities are reasonable, not high, but sufficient to maintain balance. As for the wines, they surprised him: tighter and more compact at this stage than expected. Stylistically, they recall less extreme examples of 2003, or perhaps a more elegant version of 2016. Tasting note: More wood influence is evident on the spicy aromas of mostly ripe black pinot fruit and exotic tea-suffused nose. The supple and attractively vibrant middle weight flavors are not dense but I like the beguiling texture that carries over to the lingering finish that firms up significantly.
Land: Frankrijk
Jaartal: 2023
Regio: Bourgogne
Appelatie / Herkomst: Vosne-Romanée
Druivenras: Pinot Noir / Spätburgunder
Serveertemperatuur: 14-16°C
